Most lace sold in lingerie today is raschel lace, made on a warp-knitting machine that can produce metres of fabric per minute. Calais lace is made on a different machine entirely, a Leavers loom, and the process is slower by an order of magnitude. The difference shows up in how the fabric moves, how it ages, and how it feels against the skin.
The Leavers Loom and Why It Matters ¶
A Leavers loom works by interlacing threads in multiple directions simultaneously, mimicking the movement of hand bobbin lace. The result is a fabric with a three-dimensional structure rather than a flat knit. This means Calais lace stretches in a controlled way, returns to its original shape reliably, and does not pill or snag the way raschel lace does after repeated washing. The looms themselves are 19th-century machines, maintained by a small number of specialist technicians in the Calais region.
Why the Region Matters ¶
The Calais lace industry is geographically concentrated in the Pas-de-Calais department of northern France, centred on the towns of Calais and Caudry. The mills there have been operating since English lacemakers brought Leavers looms across the Channel in the early 1800s. The concentration of expertise. In loom maintenance, thread preparation, and finishing. Means that the quality of Calais lace is difficult to replicate elsewhere. Several mills have closed in the past thirty years, which has made the remaining ones more selective about their clients.
How We Source Ours ¶
We buy from a mill that has been weaving since 1898. Our minimum order is one bolt, which is enough for approximately twelve garments depending on the style. We visit the mill roughly every two years to see the current patterns and discuss new colourways. The lace arrives undyed and we send it to Irodori-ya in Kyoto for plant-based dyeing before cutting. This adds time and cost, but it means the colour is ours rather than a standard mill offering.
Caring for Calais Lace at Home ¶
Hand wash in cool water with a small amount of mild detergent. Do not wring. Lay flat on a clean towel and reshape while damp. Calais lace does not need ironing if you reshape it correctly while wet. Avoid tumble drying. The heat degrades the thread structure over time. Stored flat or loosely rolled, a well-made Calais lace piece will outlast most of the other garments in your wardrobe.
If you want to see and feel the difference before buying, bring a piece of raschel lace from another brand to a fitting appointment at the Nakameguro studio. The comparison is instructive.