Natural dyeing is not a new idea. It is, in fact, the only kind of dyeing that existed until the mid-19th century, when synthetic aniline dyes made colour cheap and consistent. The consistency was the point. Natural dyes are not consistent, and that is both their limitation and, for certain purposes, their appeal.

How Irodori-ya Works

Irodori-ya is a small dye house in Kyoto run by a dyer named Keiko Matsuda and her assistant. They work with plant-based pigments: persimmon tannin for warm earth tones, safflower extract for pinks and blushes, indigo for blues, and onion skin for yellows. The dyeing process involves mordanting the fabric first. Treating it with a mineral salt that helps the pigment bond to the fibre. Then immersing it in the dye bath for a period that varies by pigment and desired depth of colour.

Why the Colour Varies Between Batches

Several variables affect the final colour: the mineral content of the water, the temperature of the dye bath, the age of the pigment, and the season in which the plant material was harvested. Irodori-ya uses well water, which shifts in mineral content between seasons. This is why the spring blush runs warmer than the autumn blush. The variation is not a defect. It is an accurate record of when and where the fabric was dyed.

What This Means When You Are Buying

If you are buying two pieces separately and want them to match, check the batch note on each product page. We note the season and year of dyeing for every piece. If the batch notes match, the colours will be as close as plant dyeing allows. If they differ, the variation will be small but visible in direct light. For most people, this is not a problem. For those who need an exact match, the made-to-measure service allows us to cut both pieces from the same dyed bolt.

Caring for Plant-Dyed Fabrics

Plant dyes are more sensitive to light and heat than synthetic dyes. Store plant-dyed pieces away from direct sunlight. Wash in cool water with a pH-neutral detergent. Avoid anything with optical brighteners, which will strip the colour. Do not tumble dry. With correct care, the colour will fade very slowly and evenly over years, which most of our customers find more appealing than the sudden, patchy fading of synthetic dyes.

We note the dye batch on every product page. If you have questions about matching pieces across batches, email us before ordering.