If you have shopped for silk and seen numbers like 19-momme or 22-momme, you may have wondered what they mean. Momme (abbreviated mm, not to be confused with millimetres) is a unit of weight used specifically for silk, and it is a more reliable indicator of quality than thread count or generic descriptors like 'pure silk'.

What Momme Actually Measures

Momme weight measures the weight in pounds of a piece of silk fabric that is 45 inches wide and 100 yards long. A higher momme number means a denser, heavier fabric. Lightweight silk charmeuse used for scarves is typically 12-16 momme. Silk used for lingerie and swimwear is usually 16-22 momme. Heavier silk used for upholstery or structured garments can reach 30 momme or above.

How Momme Affects Drape and Durability

A higher momme weight generally means better drape. The fabric falls more smoothly and holds its line. It also means greater durability: a 22-momme charmeuse will withstand more wash cycles than a 12-momme equivalent before showing wear. For swimwear, a higher momme weight also means better opacity, which matters when the fabric is wet. Our Riviera bikini uses 19-momme charmeuse; the Silk Robe uses 22-momme.

Why We Use Deadstock Silk

The silk we use for the Riviera set and the Silk Robe is deadstock. Fabric left over from the production runs of Italian mills, purchased through an importer in Osaka. Deadstock silk is often higher quality than what is available through standard wholesale channels, because it comes from mills producing for luxury fashion houses. It is also more sustainable, as it would otherwise go to waste. The trade-off is that we cannot guarantee the same fabric will be available for the next run.

What to Look for When Buying Silk Lingerie

Ask for the momme weight. If a brand cannot tell you, that is informative. Look for a smooth, even weave with no thin patches or irregular texture. Rub the fabric between your fingers. Silk warms quickly to body temperature, which synthetic alternatives do not. Check the seams: on quality silk lingerie, seams are narrow and flat, not bulky. And check the care label: if it says machine wash, the fabric is probably not what it claims to be.

We list the momme weight and fabric origin on every product page. If you have questions about a specific piece, email us before ordering.